(Robert) This was our first full day in Istanbul and we set out to make the most of it. After spending close to an hour just to get a handle on the city’s metro system (nice, new, air-conditioned train cars, shocking lack of maps and signs), we landed in the ever-bustling Sultanahmet district, which is home to the majority of Istanbul’s great historical attractions. We made our first stop at the Basilica Cistern which is located just about kitty-corner from the Ayasofya Museum, which I will get to later.
Built in the 6th-century, the Basilica Cistern is a vast underground chamber that once served as a water source for the neighboring palace. Over time the water source became mostly forgotten by authorities, only to be rediscovered in the 16th-century by a scholar who had heard reports of city inhabitants lowering buckets through holes in their floors to retrieve drinking water and in some cases - live fish. The cistern now serves as a popular tourist attraction, due not just to its architectural marvel but also in part to the cool relief it provides from the city's scorching sun. Over the remainder of our stay in Istanbul, the cistern remains our favorite attraction. Carefully placed lighting provides an ethereal visual effect, revealing scores of Ionic and Corinthian columns that provide structural support. Visitors walk on a platform elevated from shallow waters that are home to thousands of ghostly fish, that are almost as fascinating as the cistern itself.
Among the most popular attractions are two giant Medusa heads which sit at the base of their respective columns. One is situated upside down while the other is on its side. The other main attraction is an ornately-sculpted column with a conveniently-located hole into which many visitors trustingly insert their right thumb and twist clockwise in a full circle for good luck. In no position to pass up on an opportunity for good luck, Katherine and I both participated in this time-honored tradition.
After exiting the cistern we made our way to the Ayasofia palace which now serves as a museum. After paying a hefty 20-TL admission price for each of our tickets, we felt a bit let down by the condition of the palace. There is no doubt that the palace is an architectural wonder. Built in the 6th-century to serve as the Church of the Devine Wisdom the structure is absolutely massive in scale. The walls are lined with intricate mosaics depicting Jesus, Virgin Mary as well a number of noble dignitaries.
After spending a couple of hours in the palace we made our way to the Blue Mosque. Having planned to visit the mosque that day, we intentionally donned mosque-appropriate attire, which mandates head, shoulder and leg covering for ladies and pants for men. Before entering the mosque through the “Visitors Entrance” or what is more likely referred to as the "heathens" entrance by the mosque's regulars, we were required to remove our shoes and place them in clear plastic bags, generously provided by the mosque. Visitors remain in the rear of the mosque and are respectfully asked to refrain from speaking while Muslim men partake in prayers up in the front. Even Muslim women are required to remain in the rear of mosque among the multitudes of visitors.
Katherine and I were immediately impressed with not just the grandeur of the mosque, which albeit is impressive, but with the ornate decoration inside. Immaculately maintained in comparison to the Ayasofia palace, it doesn’t taker a rocket-scientist to gather which site is receiving more financial support. We ended our day walking back across the Galata to our neighborhood where we stumbled upon a rooftop cafe called Perla Kallavi Nargile Cafe where we were able to enjoy a bird's eye view of our neighborhood. It was a great way to unwind and reflect upon all of the tremendous sites we had seen today.
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