Exploring San Telmo

(Katherine) Our goals for today were to check out a new neighborhood, San Telmo, and to emulate one of Anthony Bordaine's experiences in Buenos Aires. We looked on his web site to see what restaurants he visited during his BA episode, and decided to start the day at La Banca, a cafe in the center of the financial district. Robert and I split up so I could run an errand, and I found him at the cafe – looking miserable. The cafe was small and crowded and 98% men, all wearing business suits and packed alongside each other while trying to drink their coffee along a tiny ledge that wove around the building. It also wrapped around 2 stations where you placed your order with the server, and then they plopped it over their wall onto your tiny piece of real estate on the ledge. Robert was less than satisfied with his order, so we decided to ditch Anthony's recommendation and head to San Telmo.

We had actually been to this neighborhood once before to meet up with our friend Nacho, but it was late at night and we didn't walk around at all. It was completely different walking around during the day. The main streets that comprise the neighborhood are cobblestone, and they are lined with various restaurants and shops. This is the oldest barrio (neighborhood) in Buenos Aires, and is known for their antique trade. There is a famous antique fair each Sunday which we meant to attend yesterday, but the rain kept us away.

We were completely taken San Telmo's charm, and walked all along the various streets before deciding to stop at San Telmo Square, which reminded me of a smaller version of Washington Square in North Beach, SF. We had a glass of wine at Plaza Dorŕego Bar which looks like it hasn't changed at all for at least 100 years. The décor is dark and all wood, with carvings along the walls and counter. We just ordered a glass of wine, and I noticed that our waiter wasn't exactly cordial. Later I read in the guidebook that they are known for “politely aloof waiters” which is the perfect description for the service.

We walked around for a few more minutes, and then got suckered into another venue called Todo Mundo which promised “continuous live tango.” It was more like a 10 minute performance once an hour by the same couple, but it was still nice to watch live dancing. After their routine, they go into the audience and chat with the crowd, and then embarrass you as they pull each of you up on stage to dance with them. Robert & I were both terrible with our new partners, but having at least once lesson under our belts helped to lessen the damage a bit. We took video footage of each other, but I'm not sure if we're going to post it!

We kept walking around some more looking for a restaurant for dinner. While looking at the menu for one establishment, a couple came up behind us and started speaking to us in Spanish. After a few blank stares back and forth, we learned that they mistook us from behind as a couple of their friends they were supposed to meet at the restaurant. It turned out that they were from Seattle, and just finishing up a trip that had taken them all over the US and South America for about the past 14 months with their car. We chatted with them for quite a while and learned several travel tips before parting ways so they could continue to look for their friends and we could decide on a restaurant.

We walked past a Tex-Mex restaurant called Aquí Me Quedo, and Robert really wanted to make another attempt at a burrito. However, this experience disappointed him far beyond our Palermo meal, to the point he wants to post a negative review on TripAdvisor.com. One of the lessons we learned from the American couple – don't order food from other regions while traveling because you will most likely disappointed. Robert is slowly coming to accept that he is not going to find a Mexican meal to his satisfaction until we get back to California – or decide to venture to Mexico!